The Uncomfortable Alliance: How the Cañari Betrayed the Incas for the Spanish

As a certified guide who has spent years leading travellers through the valleys and highlands of Azuay, I’ve learned that the true story of this land isn’t just in the Inca ruins everyone photographs. It’s in the silences between them. It’s in the story of the people who lived here first: the Cañari. And the most pivotal chapter of their story is one most visitors never hear—how the Cañari actively allied with the Spanish conquistadors to destroy their Inca overlords.

This isn’t a simple tale of betrayal. It’s a raw lesson in strategy, desperation, and the brutal calculus of survival. Understanding this alliance is the key to unlocking the complex history etched into the landscape, from the stones of Ingapirca to the very layout of colonial Cuenca.

The Seeds of Resentment: Life Under the Inca Yoke

Before the Spanish arrived, the Cañari were a powerful and sophisticated confederation. Their heartland, Guapondelig ("plain as wide as the sky"), was where Cuenca now stands. But in the late 15th century, the relentless Inca war machine, under the command of Tupac Yupanqui, conquered them after years of fierce resistance.

It was not a gentle assimilation. The Inca dismantled the Cañari way of life.

1. They imposed their sun god, Inti, over Cañari deities.
2. They enforced Quechua as the official language.
3. They implemented the mitma system, a brutal policy of forced resettlement where entire Cañari communities (ayllus) were uprooted and moved to distant corners of the empire, replaced by Inca loyalists to crush any spirit of rebellion.

The Incas then built their northern capital, Tomebamba, directly on top of the Cañari center of Guapondelig. Today, you can walk through the ghosts of this history at the Pumapungo archaeological site in Cuenca, where magnificent Inca stonework sits on the foundations of a people who were systematically suppressed. For the Cañari, every grand Inca temple was a tombstone for their autonomy. This deep-seated resentment was a powder keg waiting for a spark.

The Unexpected Welcome: A Deal with the Devil

When Francisco Pizarro’s small, steel-clad force arrived, the Inca Empire was already tearing itself apart in a bloody civil war between the brothers Huáscar and Atahualpa. The Cañari had sided with the southern, Cusco-based faction of Huáscar. When Atahualpa emerged victorious, he unleashed a horrific massacre upon the Cañari people in retaliation, cementing their hatred for his rule.

So when the Spanish appeared, the Cañari didn’t see invaders; they saw liberators. Or, more accurately, they saw a weapon they could wield against Atahualpa. They provided the Spanish with everything:

1. Food
2. Shelter
3. Intelligence on Inca troop movements
4. Thousands of seasoned warriors who knew the mountain passes and hidden trails—the ancient footpaths known as the Qhapaq Ñan.

This alliance was not born of admiration but of pure, pragmatic desperation. For a traveller, this context is crucial. When you visit a site like Ingapirca—Ecuador’s most significant Inca-Cañari complex, sitting at a breathtaking 3,160 meters (10,367 feet)—you are not just seeing an Inca sun temple. You are standing on a Cañari ceremonial site that the Incas conquered and built over, a physical manifestation of the very conflict that drove the Cañari into the arms of the Spanish.

The Spoils of War: A Fleeting Victory

In the short term, the alliance was a resounding success. With Cañari support, the Spanish toppled the Inca Empire. But the dream of restored Cañari independence vanished almost immediately. The Cañari quickly learned they had merely swapped one master for another, arguably a more insidious one.

The Spanish crown granted Cañari leaders certain privileges and titles, but the common people were subjected to the encomienda system of forced labor, ravaged by European diseases, and pressured into Catholicism. The alliance that had promised freedom delivered a new, more permanent form of subjugation.

This bitter legacy is visible on the land. When you explore the region, you can still find remnants of pre-Inca foundations. A prime example is the Castillo de Chobshi, a Cañari fortress near Sígsig. Below the fortress walls lies the Cueva Negra de Chobshi (Chobshi Black Cave), a pre-ceramic archaeological site with evidence of human habitation dating back 10,000 years. This isn't just a ruin; it's a testament to the sheer depth of history here, a timeline that makes the Inca and Spanish occupations seem recent. Visiting it, you understand that the Cañari were not a footnote, but the bedrock of this region’s identity.

A Guide's Practical Briefing: Exploring the Cañari & Inca World

To truly connect with this history, you must leave the city. But the Andes demand respect and preparation.

Transportation

• Local Bus: This is the authentic, budget-friendly way. For Chobshi, take a bus from Cuenca’s Terminal Terrestre with the Cooperativa de Transporte Sígsig. The journey takes about 1.5 hours and costs $1.75 USD. The key is to communicate with the driver or his assistant. Use this essential local phrase: “Por favor, me avisa en la entrada para Chobshi?” (Please, can you let me know at the entrance for Chobshi?). The drop-off is on the side of the highway, and you’ll have a short walk.
• Private Transport: A taxi or private driver offers immense flexibility. For a full-day trip covering Ingapirca and perhaps a stop in a town like Biblián, expect to pay $80-$120 USD. This allows you to set your own pace, which is crucial for acclimatizing to the altitude.
• Guided Tour: The safest and most insightful option. A certified guide handles the logistics, provides deep historical context that breathes life into the stones, and is prepared for any contingency.

Essential Gear & Sustenance

• Footwear: Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots are non-negotiable. Trails are often little more than eroded farm paths.
• Layers: The weather here doesn't change by the season; it changes by the minute. You'll need a base layer, a fleece, and a waterproof/windproof shell.
• Sun Protection: At high altitude, the UV index is extreme, even on cloudy days. A wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and SPF 50+ sunscreen are mandatory.
• Hydration: Bring at least 1.5 liters of water. For a local tip, sip on mate de coca (coca leaf tea) before your trip to help mitigate the effects of altitude sickness, known locally as soroche.
• Trail Snacks: Forget protein bars. Do as the locals do and pack some tostado (toasted corn kernels with salt) or grab some Pan de Naranja (a sweet, dense orange-flavored bread) from a vendor in Gualaceo or Chordeleg if you pass through. It's the perfect high-energy snack.

⚠️ Guide's Safety Briefing: The Risk Every Tourist Underestimates

The number one danger isn’t crime; it’s altitude and terrain. Tourists consistently underestimate the physical toll of hiking at over 3,000 meters and the treacherous nature of unmarked trails.

Cuenca sits at 2,560 meters (8,400 feet), which is already high enough to cause mild symptoms. When you travel to Ingapirca or Chobshi, you go higher. Pushing yourself too hard can lead to severe headaches, nausea, and disorientation, turning a dream trip into a medical emergency. Acclimatize in Cuenca for at least a day before undertaking strenuous high-altitude excursions.

Furthermore, many of these "trails" are not maintained for tourism. They are ancient paths, often slick with mud, covered in loose scree, and bordering steep drops with no guardrails. A slip here can be catastrophic. An uncertified guide is a liability; they lack the emergency training, navigation skills, and—critically—the insurance to protect you if something goes wrong.

The Enduring Echoes

The alliance between the Cañari and the Spanish is a complex, uncomfortable story. It dismantles the simple narrative of European conquerors and indigenous victims, revealing a landscape of competing native powers where desperate choices were made for survival. When you stand on a windswept hill, looking at stones laid down by Cañari, then Inca, then Spanish hands, you are witnessing the physical record of this powerful drama. It’s a story of a people who, in a bid to reclaim their past, forever altered their future.

To walk these paths is to understand the soul of the Southern Andes. Ready to experience it safely and with the depth it deserves? Join me on a professionally guided, fully insured tour and step into the real history of Cuenca and its people.