Unlocking Cuenca's Craft Beer Scene: A Certified Guide's Tour of Local Brews and Brewpubs

The Rise of Craft Beer in the Andes

For decades, Ecuador's beer choices were limited. But in the last several years, a wave of passion, driven by both locals and returning expats, has transformed Cuenca into a legitimate craft beer destination. What makes our scene unique is the fusion of world-class brewing techniques with hyper-local ingredients. It's not uncommon to find a Belgian Saison infused with uvilla (goldenberry) or a rich stout conditioned with cacao from the coast. This is Ecuadorian terroir in a glass.

Navigating Cuenca's Brewery Hotspots

The scene is always evolving, but a few key players consistently deliver quality and a truly local experience. Here are my personal recommendations, complete with the logistical details you’ll actually need.

1. Jodoco Belgian Brew: The Pioneer

No serious tour of Cuenca beer can begin anywhere else. Jodoco is one of the city's original craft breweries, founded by a Belgian who brought his homeland's brewing heritage to the Andes. It's the gold standard.

• The Brews: Their expertise is in authentic Belgian styles. The Jodoco Dubbel and Tripel are masterfully crafted and pack a punch—remember my warning about the altitude. For something lighter, their Blonde Ale is crisp and refreshing.
• The Vibe: It's a relaxed, welcoming brewpub just a short walk north of the historic center. You’ll find a mix of dedicated local regulars and in-the-know expats.
• Insider Tip: Jodoco is located on Calle Larga, a main thoroughfare. A taxi from Parque Calderón will cost you the minimum fare, around $1.75. Tell the driver, "a Jodoco, por favor, en la Calle Larga."

2. La Yegua Cervecería: The Local Favorite

"The Mare" is more than a brewery; it's a neighborhood institution beloved by Cuencanos. It’s where you go for a truly authentic, no-frills experience.

• The Brews: They maintain a solid lineup, but their Irish Red Ale is a consistent standout. Their Porter is another excellent choice, especially on a chilly Andean evening, with its deep coffee and chocolate notes. Always ask what experimental batch they have on tap.
• The Vibe: Casual, unpretentious, and always buzzing with friendly locals. This is the place to practice your Spanish and make new friends.
• Logistics: Located in the Monay neighborhood, it's a bit outside the tourist core. A taxi is your best bet and should cost no more than $3-$4. Agree on the price before you get in.

3. Mercado 10 de Agosto: The Craft Beer Hub

This isn't a brewery, but a stall on the second floor of our city’s most vibrant market. It's a vital hub that bottles and sells brews from smaller, "garage" operations that don't have their own taprooms.

• The Brews: This is your treasure map. You'll find an eclectic, ever-changing selection. Look for bottles from micro-brewers experimenting with local fruits like naranjilla or maracuyá (passion fruit). It’s the perfect way to create your own tasting flight.
• The Vibe: Pure, chaotic, wonderful market energy. You’ll be surrounded by the sights and smells of fresh produce and sizzling food.
• Hyper-Specific Detail: To find the stall, enter the market, go up to the second floor, and head toward the prepared food courts (patios de comida). Ask for the "puesto de cerveza artesanal." Pair your beer finds with a plate of hornado (slow-roasted pork) or fresh mote pillo from a nearby vendor for an unforgettable Cuencano lunch.

4. El Chato Brewpub: The Modern Hangout

"El Chato" (a local slang term for a pug-nosed dog) offers a more modern, pub-like atmosphere that's popular with a younger crowd and expats.

• The Brews: They offer a reliable and approachable range of beers, from a crisp Blonde Ale perfect for new craft drinkers to a more assertive IPA.
• The Vibe: Lively and often crowded, especially on weekends, with music and sports on TV. It’s a great social spot if you’re looking for energy.
• Logistics: Located north of the Tomebamba River, it's an easy taxi ride from anywhere in El Centro.

Beyond the Brews: A Guide’s Cultural Primer

• Pace Yourself (Seriously): Cuenca’s historic center sits at 2,560 meters (8,400 feet). At this altitude, alcohol hits your system faster and harder. My rule for clients: for every beer you drink, have a full glass of water. Ignore this, and you’ll regret it tomorrow.
• The Local Toast: A simple "¡Salud!" (To health!) is the universal toast.
• Essential Spanish: To sound like you know what you're doing, ask your bartender: "¿Cuál me recomienda que sea bien local?" (Which one do you recommend that is very local?). This shows genuine interest and will always get you the best, most passionate answer.
• Cash is King: While many places take cards, Ecuador is a cash-based society. Always carry smaller US dollar bills ($5s, $10s, $20s). Trying to break a $50 or $100 bill at a small brewery is a surefire way to cause a headache for everyone.

Tour Guide's Preparation Checklist for Your Beer Adventure

• Comfortable Walking Shoes: Cuenca is a walking city with uneven cobblestone streets.
• A Light Jacket: As soon as the sun sets behind the Cajas mountains, the temperature drops. Don't be caught shivering.
• The Movilízate Bus Card: If you plan on using the city bus (a flat fare of just 30 cents), you need to pre-load one of these cards, available at many pharmacies and tiendas. You cannot pay in cash on the bus.
• A Curious Palate: Be open to trying a beer made with Andean grains or Amazonian fruits. It's part of the adventure!

⚠️ Guide's Safety Briefing: The Altitude-Alcohol Trap

The single biggest risk visitors underestimate here is not crime, but the potent combination of alcohol and altitude. Being at 8,400 feet significantly lowers your alcohol tolerance. Two beers can feel like four, seriously impairing your judgment and coordination. This is the "altitude-alcohol trap."

To stay safe:

1. Stick to registered yellow taxis. When you get in, politely say, "Con el taxímetro, por favor" (With the meter, please). This ensures a fair price. At night, use a trusted app like AzuTaxi.
2. Walk in groups on well-lit streets. After dark, avoid quiet or empty side streets, especially when walking back from a brewery.
3. Never accept a drink from a stranger, and keep your glass in sight.
4. Beware of "freelance guides." Politely but firmly decline offers for tours from individuals who approach you on the street. They are not certified, insured, or accountable. Your safety is worth the cost of a professional.

Beyond the Glass: A Taste of Place

The story of Cuenca's craft beer is a story about the city itself—a blend of deep-rooted tradition and a new, global-minded creative class. Many brewers here work directly with farmers in the surrounding Azuay and Cañar provinces to source unique ingredients. When you drink a local craft beer, you are tasting our region’s agricultural soul.

This dynamic scene offers a delicious way to support small, independent businesses and connect with the modern spirit of Cuenca. So, get out there, be smart, and enjoy some of the most innovative and exciting beers being brewed in South America.

¡Salud!