Discover Cajas National Park's Ancient Polylepis Forests: A Guided Adventure

The 'Paper Trees' of Cajas: A Local Guide's Guide to the Polylepis Forests

Welcome, fellow adventurers. As a certified guide who has led countless treks through the páramo of El Cajas, I want to take you beyond the postcards. We’re going to talk about the soul of this place: the ancient Polylepis trees, known locally as árboles de papel—paper trees. Their rust-colored, peeling bark tells a story of survival at extreme altitudes, and to truly understand Cajas is to understand these remarkable forests.

For anyone spending time in Cuenca, a trip to Cajas is non-negotiable. But approaching it correctly makes the difference between a nice day out and a profound experience. Forget the generic advice; this is how you do it right.

Unveiling the Polylepis: A Living Chronicle

Stepping into a Polylepis grove feels like entering another world. These are not just trees; they are the highest-altitude forests on the planet, thriving where little else can. You’ll find them tucked into glacial valleys above 3,500 meters (11,500 feet), creating a landscape that feels both haunting and sacred.

Why these trees are so extraordinary, from a guide's perspective:

• The Bark is Armor: That signature peeling bark isn't just for show. It's a brilliant adaptation. The multiple, paper-thin layers trap air, creating a thermal barrier that insulates the tree's core from freezing nocturnal temperatures and harsh winds. In the quiet of the páramo, you can hear the wind whispering through the loose layers—a sound unique to this environment.
• Ancient Guardians: These trees are incredibly slow-growing. Some individuals in Cajas are estimated to be over 1,000 years old, making them living links to a pre-Incan Andes. They are true survivors.
• Keystone Species: These groves are vital oases. They create a unique microclimate, offering shelter for rare birds like the Giant Conebill and Tit-like Dacnis. Their roots anchor the fragile soil on steep slopes, preventing erosion and helping to regulate the water that eventually flows down to cities like Cuenca.
• An Indicator of Health: The health of the Polylepis forests is a direct reflection of the health of the entire páramo ecosystem. They are sensitive to climate change, making their protection a critical mission for us here in Azuay.

Getting to the Groves: A Guide's Logistical Breakdown

The main entrance to Cajas is located at the Laguna La Toreadora ranger station, at a bracing 3,910 meters (12,828 feet). The journey itself is part of the acclimatization process.

• By Bus (The Local's Way): For the adventurous and budget-conscious, you can catch a bus from Cuenca’s Terminal Terrestre. Look for the Cooperativa de Transporte Occidental window. A one-way ticket costs exactly $2.50 USD. The bus is heading to Guayaquil, so you must tell the driver clearly, "Me deja en La Toreadora, por favor" (Let me off at La Toreadora, please). The trip takes about 45 minutes. The downside? You're on their schedule, and catching a return bus involves flagging one down on the side of a busy highway, which can be uncertain.
• Guided Tour (The Smart Way): This is the best option for a first-timer. A good guide manages logistics, ensures you're on the right trail for your fitness level, and provides invaluable context and safety oversight. You'll often get to see less-crowded areas and learn far more than you could on your own.
• Park Entry: As of early 2024, entrance to Cajas is free for both nationals and foreigners. However, you must register at the ranger station upon arrival. Have your passport or a photo of it on your phone ready.

Hiking Among the Polylepis: Choosing Your Route

Once at Laguna La Toreadora, you have several options. The key is choosing a trail that matches your acclimatization and fitness level.

• Ruta 1 - The Toreadora Loop: This is the most popular trail, a relatively flat 2-hour walk around the lake. It's excellent for acclimatization and offers stunning views and your first encounters with Polylepis trees. Difficulty: Easy.
• Ruta 2 - Laguna Illincocha & the Whispering Forest: This is my personal recommendation for a more immersive experience. It's a moderately difficult 3-4 hour hike that descends into a valley containing one of the most beautiful and accessible Polylepis forests in the park. The descent can be slick and muddy, so proper boots are essential.
• Longer Routes: Trails like Ruta 3 and beyond often require multiple days and are for experienced, well-equipped trekkers only. You must hire a certified local guide for these routes; attempting them alone is forbidden and extremely dangerous.

Preparing for Cajas: A No-Nonsense Checklist

I’ve seen too many visitors have a miserable time (or worse) because they came unprepared. The Andes do not forgive arrogance. This is not optional.

• Acclimatize First: This is my most important piece of advice. Spend at least two full days in Cuenca (2,560m / 8,400ft) before attempting Cajas. Walk around the city, drink plenty of water and agua de cedrón (lemon verbena tea), and avoid heavy meals and alcohol. If you feel a headache or nausea, that's a warning sign. Tell your guide; a common phrase is, "Me está pegando un poco la altura" (The altitude is hitting me a little).
• Essential Gear:
  • Layers are Law: A moisture-wicking base layer, a fleece mid-layer, and a high-quality waterproof/windproof shell. No cotton.
  • Waterproof Hiking Boots: Not sneakers. The ground is almost always wet, muddy, and uneven.
  • Sun Protection: The UV index at 4,000 meters is extreme, even when it's cloudy. SPF 50+, sunglasses, and a hat are mandatory.
  • Water and Snacks: Carry at least 1.5 liters of water. High-energy snacks like tostado (a crunchy toasted corn snack, different from bread) and local chocolate are perfect.
  • Cash: For the bus or for a rewarding hot meal after your hike.
• The Post-Hike Ritual: No trip to Cajas is complete without stopping at one of the rustic restaurants near the park entrance on the way back to Cuenca. Order a fresh-caught trucha (trout) and a warming canelazo (a hot drink made with cinnamon, sugar, and a splash of local spirit). It's the perfect way to cap off the day.

⚠️ A Guide's Crucial Safety Warning

The single biggest risk in Cajas is not wildlife; it's the weather combined with altitude. A sunny morning can turn into a disorienting, freezing fog in less than ten minutes. Unmarked trails become invisible, and hypothermia becomes a real threat. Every year, tourists get lost here, often because they strayed from the main trails without a guide. Do not overestimate your abilities or underestimate this environment. Stick to marked paths and listen to your body.

Experience Cajas with an Expert

The Polylepis forests are a treasure, a silent testament to the raw power and beauty of the Andes. To truly connect with them, to hike safely, and to understand their place in our world, I invite you to join a professionally guided expedition.

With cuencatours, you’re not just a tourist; you’re an explorer under the care of an insured, certified local expert. We handle the details so you can focus on the magic of the paper trees and the hundreds of glacial lakes that make El Cajas a place you will never forget.