El Cajas National Park: Your Multi-Lake Hiking Strategy

As a certified local guide who has led hundreds of hikes through El Cajas, I can tell you this: the park’s soul isn't just in its peaks, but in the 275+ glacial lakes that shimmer like scattered jewels across the páramo. It’s a hydrologic wonderland. For hikers wanting to see multiple lakes in a single day, Cajas is unparalleled. But this isn't a casual stroll. To experience it safely and fully requires insider knowledge. This is a high-altitude, unpredictable environment where preparation is everything.

My goal is to give you the specific, actionable information I share with my own clients—details that transform a potentially risky outing into a triumphant exploration.

Unveiling the Labyrinth: Your Multi-Lake Hiking Strategy

The beauty of Cajas is its density of lakes. The challenge is the terrain and the notoriously fickle weather. The best multi-lake hikes start from the main visitor center at Laguna Toreadora, the most accessible entry point.

My top recommendation for first-timers who are well-acclimatized and fit is the famous Ruta 1 (Route 1). This isn't just a trail; it's the quintessential Cajas experience.

Ruta 1: The Toreadora to Patoquinuas Loop

This route is the park's crown jewel, taking you through a breathtaking cross-section of the Cajas landscape, past several distinct lakes.

• Starting Point: You must register at the Laguna Toreadora Visitor Center, located at a crisp 3,900 meters (12,800 feet). Registration is mandatory for safety and park management.
• The Journey: The trail begins with a descent from Toreadora, skirting its shores before leading you into a stunning valley of otherworldly Polylepis trees—the "paper trees" that are among the highest-altitude trees in the world. You'll pass Laguna Unidas, Laguna Totoras, and Laguna Patoquinuas. The return leg involves a significant, lung-busting ascent back towards the main road, which is often the most challenging part of the hike. From the pickup point on the road, it's a short walk back to the visitor center.

What to Expect Logistically:

• Trail Conditions: Ruta 1 is well-marked with numbered posts, but don't let that fool you. You will cross sections of deep, boggy mud (even in the "dry" season), navigate slick rock fields, and tackle steep inclines. Waterproof boots are not a suggestion; they are a requirement.
• Time Commitment: This loop is approximately 4.5 km (2.8 miles) and takes 3 to 5 hours depending on your pace and acclimatization. Start no later than 10:00 AM. The weather almost always deteriorates in the afternoon.
• Altitude: You'll be hiking between 3,600 and 4,000 meters (11,800 to 13,100 feet). Altitude sickness is a serious risk that can ruin your day and become a medical emergency.

Beyond Ruta 1: More Challenging Options

For those with proven high-altitude hiking experience or returning visitors, Cajas offers tougher, more solitary routes.

• Ruta 2 (Laguna Illincocha): This is a longer, more demanding trek often taking 6-8 hours. It ventures deeper into the park, offering incredible solitude and vistas. The trail is significantly less defined than Ruta 1, and navigation skills are critical. I strongly advise against attempting this route without a certified guide.
• Laguna Osohuayco: Located in a different sector of the park, reaching this lake requires more off-trail navigation and a higher level of fitness. It’s a T3-level hike (demanding mountain hiking) suitable only for experienced trekkers.

Essential Gear: Your Lifeline in the Páramo

I've seen it all: tourists in sneakers, without rain gear, without enough water. Don't be one of them. Your gear is your lifeline here.

• Footwear: Waterproof, ankle-supporting hiking boots are non-negotiable. The páramo acts like a sponge. Gaiters are an excellent addition to keep your socks dry and free of mud.
• Clothing (No Cotton!): The layering system is law in Cajas.
  1. Base Layer: Moisture-wicking synthetic or wool.
  2. Mid Layer: Warm fleece or a light down jacket.
  3. Outer Shell: A high-quality waterproof and windproof jacket and trousers. The wind can be brutal. Also essential: A warm hat (beanie), gloves, and wool hiking socks.
• Navigation: While Ruta 1 is marked, dense fog can reduce visibility to less than 10 feet. Bring a compass and a map, or a GPS device/phone with offline maps downloaded (like Maps.me) and a fully charged power bank. Never rely solely on your phone's battery.
• Food & Water: Carry at least 2 liters of water per person. For lunch, pack high-energy, easy-to-eat food. A local favorite is a sanduche de pernil (roast pork sandwich) from one of Cuenca's markets, as the fat and salt are great for energy at altitude. Nuts and chocolate are also excellent.
• Sun & Safety: The equatorial sun is brutal at this altitude, even through cloud cover. Use high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, and a wide-brimmed hat. Pack a basic first-aid kit with blister care and a headlamp, just in case.

Guide's Pre-Hike Checklist

1. Acclimatize in Cuenca: Spend at least two full days in Cuenca (2,550 m / 8,366 ft) before hiking Cajas. This is the most important step for preventing altitude sickness. Avoid alcohol the night before your hike.
2. Transportation:
   • Bus: The most affordable option. Go to the Terminal Terrestre. Take any bus heading towards Guayaquil (e.g., from the Cooperativa Occidental booth). A ticket costs about $2.50 USD. Tell the driver this exact phrase: “Por favor, me deja en la entrada de Cajas, en La Toreadora.” (Please let me off at the Cajas entrance at La Toreadora). For the return, you must flag down a bus on the opposite side of the road; they can be infrequent, especially after 4 PM.
   • Taxi/Private Driver: Costs around $30-$35 each way. Arrange for them to wait or set a specific pickup time. This is the most reliable and convenient option.
3. Park Entrance & Registration: As of my last trip, the entrance fee for foreign tourists is $7 USD. You must present your passport or a copy to register at the visitor center. This is not optional; it's a critical safety measure so rangers know who is in the park.
4. Check the Weather... and Then Ignore It: Check forecasts, but be prepared for anything. I've seen a beautiful sunny morning turn into a freezing sleet storm in under 30 minutes.

⚠️ Guide's Safety Briefing: The Dangers Tourists Underestimate

The single biggest risk in Cajas is the lethal combination of hypothermia and disorientation.

• Fog Disorientation: The infamous Cajas niebla (fog) can roll in with shocking speed, creating a complete whiteout. I once had to assist a group of lost hikers on Ruta 1 who were just 500 meters from the road but were walking in circles, completely disoriented and verging on panic. The trail markers vanish in the fog. Without a compass and the knowledge to use it, you are in serious trouble.
• Hypothermia: When you get wet from rain or sweat and the wind hits, your body temperature plummets. This is a far greater risk than altitude sickness for the unprepared hiker. It impairs judgment and physical ability, turning a simple navigational error into a life-threatening situation.
• Unlicensed "Guides": Be wary of individuals offering cheap tours near the bus station. A certified guide is insured, carries a first-aid kit and often an emergency communication device, and is trained in wilderness first aid and rescue protocols. Your safety is worth the investment.

A professional guide doesn’t just show you the way. We interpret the subtle signs of changing weather, assess your physical condition in real-time, explain the unique páramo ecology, and carry the safety equipment and knowledge to manage any emergency. We turn a beautiful walk into a safe and deeply enriching experience.

Cajas is a world-class destination. Prepare for it with the respect it demands, and it will reward you with memories that last a lifetime.