Vanishing Peaks: A Guide's Perspective on Climate Change in Cajas National Park

As your guide here in Cuenca, I often say that to understand our city, you must first understand Cajas National Park. This isn't just a place for a beautiful hike; it's the source of our water, the shaper of our climate, and a sacred space for our ancestors. But the Cajas I guide through today is not the same one from a decade ago. It's a landscape showing the undeniable scars of a changing climate, and it's my duty to show you both its profound beauty and its fragile reality.

Most visitors come for the postcard photos of its 275+ glacial lakes and alien-looking paramo. My goal is to take you deeper. We're not just hiking; we're witnessing a landscape in transition. Understanding this context elevates your visit from a simple trek to an informed, respectful encounter with one of Ecuador’s most critical ecosystems.

The Shrinking Legacy: The End of Cajas' Glaciers

Cajas is a masterpiece of glacial sculpting. Its defining U-shaped valleys and countless lagoons are the direct legacy of ancient ice flows. However, until recently, the park's highest peak, Cerro Arquitectos (4,445 m / 14,583 ft), still cradled a small but persistent glacier.

Today, that glacier is gone. It’s not receding; it has vanished entirely. This isn't abstract science; it's a reality we see on the ground. For those of us who have known these mountains for years, the absence of that brilliant white cap is a stark, visual reminder of what we're losing.

What does this mean for you, the visitor?

• Altered Water Levels: That meltwater was a vital buffer, feeding the lakes and streams that provide Cuenca's drinking water. We now see more dramatic fluctuations in lake levels, impacting everything from trout populations to the accessibility of certain trails, especially during drier months.
• Ecosystem Stress: Cajas is a haven for endemic species adapted to cold, wet conditions. As temperatures warm, we're seeing shifts. The Mazama Cajas roe deer are moving to different foraging grounds, and fragile amphibian populations face new pressures.
• A Sobering View: Standing at a viewpoint, I'll show you where the ice once was. It serves as a powerful, non-negotiable lesson on our planet’s vulnerability.

Navigating the Paramo: A High-Altitude Sponge Under Pressure

The paramo ecosystem is the heart of Cajas. This high-altitude grassland, dominated by tussock grasses and iconic frailejones (Espeletia species), acts as a giant sponge, capturing mist and rain and releasing it slowly. But it's incredibly sensitive to climatic shifts.

Specific Impacts I'll Point Out On Our Hike:

• The "Paper Trees": Look for the Polylepis trees, with their flaky, paper-like bark. As the highest-altitude trees in the world, they are a critical indicator species. Warming trends and changing frost patterns threaten their regeneration, pushing their habitat ever higher.
• Wetland Dynamics: The paramo is a labyrinth of bogs and wetlands. More intense, erratic rainfall events followed by longer dry spells disrupt this delicate balance. You may see areas of erosion or dried-out peat that were once permanently saturated.
• The Andean Condor: While sightings are rare and thrilling, the condor's food sources and nesting habitats are tied to the health of the entire ecosystem. Any stress on the paramo is a stress on them.

A Guide's Logistics: Adapting to a Changing Park

As your guide, my priority is a safe and enriching experience. The changing climate introduces new challenges we must respect.

Getting There The Local Way

For the adventurous, you can take a bus from Cuenca's Terminal Terrestre. Look for the "Cooperativa de Transporte Occidental" bus heading towards Guayaquil. The fare is approximately $2.50 USD. You must tell the driver’s assistant (ayudante) the magic phrase: "Por favor, déjeme en La Toreadora." This will drop you at the main refuge and entrance at Laguna Toreadora, sitting at a breathtaking 3,910 meters (12,828 feet).

Trail Conditions & Choices

• Ruta 1 - The Toreadora Loop: This is the most popular, well-marked, and accessible trail (1-2 hours, moderate difficulty). It's a fantastic introduction but can be crowded. After heavy rains, the wooden boardwalks become extremely slippery.
• Ruta 2 - Patoquinoas to Lagunas Unidas: This is a more strenuous hike (4-5 hours) that requires a guide. It involves poorly marked sections, significant elevation changes, and potentially hazardous river crossings that swell rapidly after rain. Attempting this alone is ill-advised.
• Erosion and Faint Paths: Unpredictable downpours create new erosion channels and can wash away trail markers. It's shockingly easy to follow a false trail created by runoff. Sticking to marked paths and listening to your guide is paramount to avoid damaging the fragile mosses and getting lost.

Essential Gear – The Local Perspective

Forget the glossy magazine ads for a moment. Here’s what truly works in Cajas:

• Layers, Layers, Layers: A moisture-wicking base, a fleece, and a high-quality waterproof/windproof shell are non-negotiable. The weather can shift from sunny to a freezing, misty downpour in under 15 minutes.
• The Local Secret: Rubber Boots. While waterproof hiking boots are good, many local guides and park rangers prefer simple rubber boots (botas de caucho). Why? The paramo is essentially a high-altitude bog. Rubber boots are 100% waterproof, easy to clean, and handle the deep mud far better than expensive leather boots that will eventually get soaked.
• Sun Protection is No Joke: The UV index at this altitude is extreme, even when it's completely overcast. Sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses are essential to prevent a nasty burn.
• Warmth in a Thermos: Bring a thermos with hot tea or agua de frescos. Staying hydrated is key to acclimating, and having a warm drink can be a lifesaver when the temperature plummets.

⚠️ Guide's Safety Briefing: The Real Risk Tourists Underestimate

The single greatest danger in Cajas is disorientation caused by the sudden onset of thick fog (neblina). Tourists consistently underestimate how quickly visibility can drop to less than 10 feet. The paramo's rolling, repetitive landscape offers few landmarks. When the mist rolls in, every hill looks the same.

This is where tragedy strikes. A hiker strays a few yards from the path, loses sight of their group, and panics. In this altered landscape, with erosion creating false trails, the risk is magnified. Getting lost leads to exposure and hypothermia, which is a far greater threat here than animal encounters. This is why hiking with a certified guide who carries a GPS, map, and compass—and knows how to use them without technology—is not a luxury; it's a critical safety measure.

Experience Cajas Responsibly and Safely

Cajas National Park is a living entity, and its story is now intertwined with the global story of climate change. After a long, cold, and rewarding hike, there is no better feeling than stopping at one of the small, rustic restaurants near the park entrance for a steaming cup of hot chocolate with a slice of fresh cheese (queso fresco) or a traditional canelazo—a hot, spiced sugarcane spirit—to warm your bones.

To truly understand the nuances of this park, from its fragile ecosystem to its evolving trails, you need an expert. An experienced local guide provides the safety, context, and deep knowledge that transforms a simple hike into an unforgettable, responsible adventure.

Ready to explore Cajas with a guide who understands its every secret? Book your professionally guided, insured tour today and experience the magic of the paramo safely.