Conquer the Devil's Nose: An Insider's Guide from Cuenca

The Nariz del Diablo, the "Devil's Nose." I've guided this trip hundreds of times, and I can tell you this: it's more than a train ride. It’s a journey back in time on a railway line considered one of the world's great engineering impossibilities. Carved from sheer Andean rock by thousands of workers, its zig-zagging descent into the Chanchán river gorge is breathtaking. But getting there from Cuenca? That requires more than a map—it requires local knowledge. Forget the online guesswork. This is your definitive logistical plan, built from years of on-the-ground experience.

Why This Journey Matters: More Than a Photo Op

The train isn't just about the stunning views of the Chimbo River valley. It's a monument to the human cost of progress. The most technically challenging section of the Guayaquil-to-Quito railway, its construction claimed thousands of lives, primarily Jamaican and Haitian labourers. As you descend the switchbacks, take a moment to appreciate the sheer audacity of carving this route with little more than dynamite and hand tools. The journey ends in the small station of Sibambe, where you'll be greeted by a local dance group and have time to visit a small museum—a glimpse into the Cañari culture that predates even the Incas here.

The Definitive Cuenca-to-Alausí Itinerary

Navigating from Cuenca to Alausí, the train's departure town, is your first adventure. Here’s how to do it right.

1. Transportation: The Bus is Best (If You Know What You're Doing)

• Public Bus (The Authentic Route): This is my recommended method for most travelers. From Cuenca's main Terminal Terrestre, you’ll be looking for buses heading north towards Riobamba or Quito, as they all stop in Alausí. The most reliable companies for this route are Transportes Patria and Alausí Cooperativa de Transportes.
  • Cost & Tickets: The one-way fare is consistently around $7.00 USD. Head directly to the company's boletería (ticket window)—don't buy from resellers shouting destinations. A crucial local phrase: "Un pasaje para Alausí en el próximo bus, por favor." (One ticket to Alausí on the next bus, please.)
  • Journey Time & Pro Tip: The trip takes a solid 4 hours, not including Cuenca traffic. The road is winding. Insider Tip: For the best views of the dramatic mountain scenery as you approach Alausí, secure a window seat on the right-hand side of the bus.
  • Frequency: Buses leave roughly every hour, but I advise clients to catch a bus no later than 2 PM the day before their train ride. This gets you into Alausí with daylight to spare.
• Private Transfer: For families or those with more luggage, a private driver offers comfort and flexibility. This will cost between $90 and $130 USD. The true advantage here is the ability to combine the trip with a stop at the Ingapirca Ruins, Ecuador's most important Inca-Cañari archaeological site, which lies almost directly on the route.

2. The Nariz del Diablo Train: The Unpredictable Heart of the Trip

This is the most critical logistical point: The train schedule is notoriously fickle. It is a heritage operation prone to mechanical issues and cancellations. NEVER trust a third-party website.

• Current Operation: The train typically operates from Friday to Sunday and on public holidays, with one or two departures per day, usually at 8:00 AM and/or 11:00 AM. You must verify the current schedule on the official Tren Ecuador website or by calling the Alausí station directly before you travel.
• Tickets & Cost: The round-trip ticket now costs $40.00 USD for foreign adults. I strongly recommend arriving in Alausí the day before to purchase your ticket in person at the Estación de Tren de Alausí. This guarantees your spot and confirms the train is actually running.
• Hyper-Specific Guide Tip: Once on board, sit on the right-hand side of the train car as you depart Alausí. This side faces outwards into the gorge during the dramatic zig-zag descent, offering unobstructed views and the best photo opportunities.

3. Why You Must Stay Overnight in Alausí

A day trip from Cuenca is a grueling, 8-hour bus ride for a 2.5-hour train journey. It’s a recipe for exhaustion. Stay one night in Alausí. This transforms the trip from a frantic rush into a charming Andean experience. You can explore the sleepy town, walk up to the giant statue of Saint Peter (Mirador de San Pedro) for panoramic views, and eat some fantastic hornado (slow-roasted pork) if it's market day (Sundays).

A Guide's Essential Packing List

The Andes have their own rules. Here’s what you need.

• Layers are Law: A t-shirt, a fleece, and a wind/rain jacket. You'll likely use all three.
• Sun Block and a Hat: The equatorial sun at this altitude is deceptive and intense. Don’t get caught out.
• Sturdy Shoes: No flip-flops. You'll be walking on uneven surfaces at the stations.
• Cash: Bring small bills ($1, $5, $10). Many vendors in Sibambe and Alausí won't have change for a $20.
• Motion Sickness Pills: The bus ride is a series of hairpin turns. Be prepared.
• Patience: This is Ecuador. Things run on their own time. Embrace it.

Altitude: A Non-Issue If You're Coming from Cuenca

Alausí sits at 2,340 meters (7,677 feet), which is slightly lower than Cuenca's 2,560 meters (8,399 feet). The bus journey, however, will take you over a pass near Achupallas that tops 3,300 meters (10,800 feet). You may feel a bit light-headed, so stay hydrated throughout the bus ride.

⚠️ The Real Risk Tourists Underestimate

The biggest danger on this trip isn't physical safety—it's disappointment due to cancellation. The train can and does get cancelled with zero notice due to mechanical problems, landslides on the track (especially in the rainy season from Feb-May), or local strikes. Showing up in Alausí on the morning of your planned trip without having confirmed the train is running is a huge gamble.

The second risk is petty theft. Pickpockets are most active in the chaotic scrum of boarding the bus at the Terminal Terrestre in Cuenca. Wear your backpack on your front, keep your wallet and phone in your front pockets, and never place valuables in the overhead rack.

Beyond the Rails: Respecting Local Culture

When you buy a handicraft in Sibambe, you’re often buying directly from the artisan. Take a moment to chat, smile, and ask about their work. Always ask for permission before taking close-up photos of individuals, especially children. "¿Puedo tomar una foto?" is all it takes.

Conclusion: Your Journey Awaits, Expertly Guided

The Devil's Nose is one of South America's iconic journeys. With this insider knowledge, you're prepared not just to see it, but to truly experience it without the logistical nightmares. You know which bus to take, which side to sit on, and how to avoid the number one pitfall that trips up other travelers.

Ready to experience the Nariz del Diablo without the stress? As your certified guide, I manage the unpredictability. I handle the transportation, confirm the train is running, secure your tickets, and ensure your entire journey is seamless and safe.

Contact me today to book your insured, professionally guided Nariz del Diablo expedition from Cuenca!